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For retailers, US-Vietnam trade deal leaves questions

Industry experts on Thursday said that the U.S.-Vietnam trade agreement raises questions for retailers of sportswear and apparel like Nike and Adidas who source their shoes and clothing from factories in Southeast Asia.

Donald Trump announced on Wednesday that the U.S. would impose a tariff of 20% on many imports coming from Vietnam. "Transshipping" goods from other countries via Vietnam will be subject to a 40% tax.

The garment and shoe industries in Vietnam are heavily dependent on imported yarns, fabrics like polyester, and trims such as buttons and zippers from China. It wasn't immediately clear if such products made in Vietnam with Chinese inputs were subject to the transshipment tax.

Transshipment is a term used to describe a product that was primarily made in China and shipped to Vietnam, before being re-labeled and exported under the Vietnam label.

In an interview with CNBC on Thursday, U.S. Treasury secretary Scott Bessent said that "a large amount" of the trade coming from Vietnam was transshipment.

Sheng Lu is a professor of fashion and clothing studies at the University of Delaware.

Lu said that "strictly speaking, transshipment was illegal. However, using foreign components to comply with the rules of origin is a common practice." "Misconducting these two practices will only increase uncertainty and create further supply chain disruption."

Vietnam is a popular destination for brands and retailers looking to reduce their dependence on factories in China. However, it has become the target of Trump’s aggressive trade policies.

Vietnam is the largest supplier of Adidas products, with 27%, and a major producer of Nike sports shoes.

Nike's spokesperson confirmed that the company was still investigating the details of the agreement. Adidas declined to comment.

"This new change, and the possibility of this transshipment tax, will cause many importers to seriously question whether Vietnam is a viable alternative." Lila Landis is a customs compliance specialist based in Fort Worth.

Landis said that while details have not been confirmed, it is possible for the 40% tariff to be added on top of the China duty applicable to any particular product. This would make the penalty extremely punitive.

According to Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America, which called the tariffs unjustified and said that they would hurt American consumers, the U.S. imported more than 274 million pairs of footwear from Vietnam in the past year.

Joe Jurken is the managing director of The ABC Group, a supply chain management firm. He said that there was disappointment with the 20% figure for Vietnam.

Jurken stated that the announced tariff on Vietnam will help to close the gap between the U.S. and China. The U.S. tariffs are 55% and this may encourage some brands, rather than switching suppliers, which can be costly and time-consuming, to stay with China.

Jurken stated that "there is a shortage of capacity in Vietnam due to the lack of factories and an abundance of capacity in China... So, we believe, the Chinese factories will benefit in the short-term."

Raymond James analysts say that the 20 percent tariff is still better than the 25-30% tariff rate that the market had feared.

The deal announcement could help retailers who were considering Vietnam place orders. Jim Kennemer is the managing director of Cosmo Sourcing.

He said that it would be "nearly impossible" to have a supply chain made up of 100% non-Chinese products.

(source: Reuters)